| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Mark |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 13:05:17
Q's apart from all the extra bits and bobs...
how many horses (bhp)
will the std 4 bolt main caps on a 350 chevy non splayed caps take.
1 with std bolts????
2 with arp studs????
thanks
mark
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Mark |
Posted - 05 Dec 2006 : 16:43:39
quote:
Originally posted by mark wb40
bought a 3970010 350 block that has been remachined by a guy who builds NHRA blocks, so should be ok...
its been cleaned/roded/reemed,line bored with new 4 bolts mains caps,xrayed, magnafluxed?,shot peaned,deckeded,oil return ways opened up,bored and honed +30,new core and freeze plugs, new cam bearings,cleared for 6" rods/383 conversion and nice paint job ...basiclly all that can be done and possibly should be done, a great big list of work and checks done.. as far as i can tell it is a good strong block, nice thick walls etc...
so fingers crossed, i might be going in a forward direction again soon..as i need to get the block built and in the car so i can figure out putting back all the rest of the bits that has been taken out..
sorry if i missled anyone into thinking i was getting a turn key engine, i was just playing
cul mark
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic |
| Mark |
Posted - 05 Dec 2006 : 06:33:38
bought a 3970010 350 block that has been remachined by a guy who builds NHRA blocks, so should be ok...
its been cleaned/roded/reemed,line bored with new 4 bolts mains caps,xrayed, magnafluxed?,shot peaned,deckeded,oil return ways opened up,bored and honed +30,new core and freeze plugs, new cam bearings,cleared for 6" rods/383 conversion and nice paint job...basiclly all that can be done and possibly should be done, a great big list of work and checks done.. as far as i can tell it is a good strong block, nice thick walls etc...
so fingers crossed, i might be going in a forward direction again soon..as i need to get the block built and in the car so i can figure out putting back all the rest of the bits that has been taken out...
cul mark
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic |
| Bennett Racing |
Posted - 04 Dec 2006 : 21:54:37
quote:
Originally posted by mark wb40
sorted...cherching££££££...another wedge spent...
so how do you run in a new engine....
cul mark
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic
Mark, a race engine is not built to same tolorences as a 'road' engine, it is built pretty much to do the business once done. we always do a few check up pass's to make sure all is ok and then thats it.
what did you end up buying then?
 www.bennettracing.co.uk  www.bennettdesign.info
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| Mark |
Posted - 04 Dec 2006 : 20:23:38
sorted...cherching££££££...another wedge spent...
so how do you run in a new engine....
cul mark
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic |
| Mark |
Posted - 03 Dec 2006 : 18:13:43
yep already looked..phil...
i looking at caps and honing as well as another block, i did find a reasonable priced block but its std bores. should have looked at the caps in the first place, but you learn as you go along as i checked every thing else....
i will get there in the end, i thought i had picked up a 355 block ie +30 bores which had been all checked and machined through out on ebay.
sort of won it but it did'nt make the reserve price, trying to contact the seller at the moment. also found a 383 block but its one piece rear seal and in the states, i think you can use the 383 its still +30 but with the longer stroke which would not matter in my case just chuck a 3.48 crank in it. they recon you can get an adapter of some sort to fit the 2 piece rear seal but not sure on that one.
i just hope i can sort out in the next 3 weeks as want to build it while off at xmass.
cul mark
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic |
| Antisocial |
Posted - 03 Dec 2006 : 14:16:06
mark, check with Real Steel on a price for a GM block, provided it comes ready machined and honed, it could be a better option. |
| Bennett Racing |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 20:40:29
Here you go, give em a bell
Moroso 8.5" Deep Sump with Trap Door for Pre-90's Block - £70
Competition Cams - 284 Extreme Engery Hydraulic Flat Tappit Cam - 2300-6500rpm range, .507" Inlet, .510" Exhaust Lift, as new with high rev lifters - £60
Stock 350 (Late Block) Roller Cam & Lifters - £50
Childs & Albert 6" Ally Rods - £60
Set of Stock I-Beam ZZ4 Rods, as new - £40
4-Bolt 350 Block (+.30), No. 7 bore scored - £offers
Standard 350 Cast Crank (to suit above block), good condition - £50
Cloyes One-Piece Timing Chain Cover - £20
Contact: Simon Williams
Country: UK Email: click here
Tel: 07813899956
______________________________________________________________________
305ci SBC with 30thou overbore hypereutectic pictons (and 8 brand new spares)
hard filled block
forged steel 3.25" stroke crank
4 bolt mains conversion
line bored, honed, heads & deck skimmed
crane roller cam
roller rockers
stainless steel valves, with 8 spare exhaust valves and a few spare intake
triple schnieder valve springs with retainers
chrome-moly pushrods
competition products deep baffled sump
two sets of headers; one dragster style zoomie, one funny car type with standard chevy->stahl adapter plates
ARP studs/bolts
short block just needs:
set of 6" steel H-beam rods
timing gears/chain and front cover
make an offer
Contact: Bob Gleadow
Country: England Email: click here
Tel: 07920 237319
______________________________________________________________________
400 small block w/rods crank and set of new hyper-u pistons at 030............£600
289 bare block fresh 030... £500
pair cleveland 4v open heads, bit manky but sound... £300
set 440 forged 030, new...£200
350 4 bolt short motor, std std, £325
lsi short motor 5.7 £1000
sbf hi-po cam, new £45
sbc hyper-u pistons 030...£100
lots of bbc stuff
4 bolt reman short motor cast crank and piston...£1250
Contact: ian mumberson
Country: midlands Email: click here
Tel: 0121 445 5000
______________________________________________________________________
small block chevy 350 on std bore
4 bolt main
steel crank
gm performance rods
k b pistons with 7 new spare +rings
there is a cam but i dont know what it is
sump /oil pump
£500
Contact: bob
Country: northants Email:
Tel: 07944655509
______________________________________________________________________
www.bennettracing.co.uk www.bennettdesign.info
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| Bennett Racing |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 20:30:21
To line bore your looking at about £180-250 depending on where you get it done.
If you cant find caps then find another block with caps.
www.bennettracing.co.uk www.bennettdesign.info
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| Mark |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 17:45:28
cheers gents.....
nah i am not trying to do it cheap i am trying to do it right but checking all options.....
as you know these baby's eat money like theres no tomorrow.. as i am now find out very rapidly..
the last thing i want to do is spend loads of cash just to blow it up by cutting a corner...
i wonder what is the price for line honing, any one have any rough ideas? and places to locate new caps...
i will look for some new caps to repair the other block, but its looking like possibly buying a new one unless i can find one some where..as times running out i only have just over 3 monthsand i want to get it all done race ready for next years start...
cul mark...
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic |
| Bennett Racing |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 15:43:49
Mark, have just found this off of net...worth a read.
Selecting the Right Engine Block for Your Project.
by www.virtualengine2000.com ©2001
************* Table of Contents **************
1. Budget
2. Old Vs New
3. Small Block Vs Big Block
4. Two bolt Vs Four bolt Vs Splayed
5. Buying a used block
*****************
1. Budget
Its only appropriate to start with the budget. A good rule of thumb is each horsepower will cost you $10 (example if you want 500 HP, expect to pay $5000 dollars for your engine). Of course if you can reuse existing parts and buy other parts used you save significantly. Do not cut too many corners, if you do you will pay more in the end.
*****************
2. Old Vs New
If you are building an engine for your street car, you can easily find a seasoned block for your project. There are many places you can find great deals on the Internet. Example www.rpmcat.com www.rpmcat.com www.hemmings.com www.hemmings.com www.carsandparts.com www.carsandparts.com , www.motorsportsmarketplace.com www.motorsportsmarketplace.com and www.flag2flag.com www.flag2flag.com.
If you are building for serious competition, you should consider buying a brand new block
*****************
3. Small Block Vs Big Block
Small blocks commonly make between 300 and 500 horsepower, and even up to 750 horsepower naturally aspirated. If you add turbos or nitrous, the 1000 hp mark is possible but will seriously test the integrity of the engine casting even when using an aftermarket block. If you want to make a reliable 750 to 1000 horsepower engine your money will be better spent on a big block.
*****************
4. Two bolt Vs Four bolt Vs Splayed
Two bolt main blocks are more common and easier to come by. Many will even argue they are stronger than their four bolt counterparts because they take less material out of the web of the engine block. A two bolt also gives you the option later of installing 4 bolt caps or splayed main caps -- the strongest combination possible. Keep in mind there are significant machine shop labor costs using this option.
If you plan to exceed 400 HP with a small block or 600 HP with a big block, you should use a four bolt block.
If you plan to exceed 500 HP with a small block or 800 HP with a big block, buy a two bolt main block and have splayed caps installed.
Be careful with certain 4-bolt blocks before you buy them, especially the 400 small block Chevy. It is very common for these blocks to be cracked in the web area near the mains.
*****************
3. Buying a used block
Use extreme caution when purchasing an engine block at a swap meet or thru the classifieds. Invest in a set of calipers before giving your hard earned cash for a block.
Measure the cylinder bore. You ideally want a virgin block that has never previously been bored. A seller knowingly or unknowingly will often tell you the block has never been bored when it reality it has already been bored 0.030 or more. You can safely go to 0.040 on the 350 Chevy, and 0.030 on the 400 Chevy, and 0.060 for the 454 Chevy for street use. Any further boring beyond this you will need to fill the block at the bottom of the cylinders to keep the block strengths.
Of course if you fill, the cooling system will still be able to keep the cylinder heads cool, but the ability of the water to remove engine oil heat at the bottom of the cylinders is lost forever and you have a 'race only' block.
Inspect the block for cracks in the cylinder walls, around the freeze plugs, near the main caps, and especially in the lifter valley if the engine used a roller cam. If a block is too greasy to perform these visual checks, look at the grease very closely. If there is any milky color, there will be a good chance of a crack somewhere in the lifter valley or the engine has a warped deck and lost the head gasket seal. Make sure there is no evidence of a spun bearing in the mains (heated and rough bearing seating surface). A block can be repaired from this type of damage, but the cost for repair is very high and you should start with a different block.
Again, do not lay down your hard earned cash until you have measured and thoroughly inspected everything yourself
www.bennettracing.co.uk www.bennettdesign.info
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| Bennett Racing |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 15:17:36
Just got back from me lunch :-)
Definitely what dean has just said is spot on, studs will reduce main caps movement ie chattering (think that’s a word) or basically stops them walking...
Not to be rude mate but if your trying to do this on the cheap then it will end up a f**k up and will last about 5 minutes before your oil pressure disappears and you got more trouble than you started with.
If your going to use other main caps then it just has to be line bored simple as that.
All that a splayed cap does is increase the area that the stud itself is into, because the two studs are further from each other and therefore more material around them. Yes they’re stronger but if you’re not leaning on the motor VERY hard then leave the standard ones.
Hope that helps.
www.bennettracing.co.uk www.bennettdesign.info
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| teamtwisted |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 15:00:36
Mark,
No way should you swap a cap from another block without line boring. You wouldn't swap rod caps would you? Same thing, the block and caps are life long buddies ;o)
If the bores are okay then I would think a line hone would be fine after swapping from bolts to studs. If you use a similar sized fastener and similar torque then I think the studs help maintain a clamp force rather than increase it.
FYI we used a set of aftermarket 4 bolt splayed caps. All our machining, including 8xboring, decking, chamfer, fit caps and line bore was about £500.
Dean. |
| Mark |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 13:56:41
another one on the same topic...
has any one had success with replacing a centre mains cap after the bearing has spun? with out having it line bored again??? as the block side is ok but the cap is knackered...
could save me getting another block!!... which i could be buying tonight, so info would be great ASAP
if so has anyone got a good used std 4 bolt bearing cap????
mark
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic |
| Mark |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 13:43:59
ya but....if you fit them you should you get it line bored? which if not could cause you problems.
but maybe if you bolt the crank down and remove one bolt at a time replacing it with a stud and torque it up again, it might work. would be interested if any one has done this????
mark
Pony Express owner etc & Wicked lady /crew/mechanic |
| Bennett Racing |
Posted - 01 Dec 2006 : 13:38:55
Got ya, personally I would fit them regardless just my opinion that if your building any race engine then makes sense to go as strong as you can with what you have got.
Piece of mind when your going through the lights flat out...
My old mans pop used to rev safely to 10,500 rpm, that was a small block chevy
www.bennettracing.co.uk www.bennettdesign.info
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